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| PACKAGE
CONTENTS
In your pack of beautiful Western Queensland Hardwood timber you should
have:
2 of 250mm x 108mm x 10mm (Sides)
2 of 150mm x 108mm x 10mm (Sides)
2 of 250mm x 140mm x 8mm (One Decorative for lid and one for base)
2 of 240mm x 70 mm x 2mm (Linings)
2 of 140mm x 70 mm x 2mm (Linings)
ALL THE TIMBER IS KILN DRIED, CUT TO SIZE AND SANDED TO #150 grit. |
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Step
1:
Layout
A feature of this timber is that it has been end matched, being sawn
from the one piece. You can therefore 'wrap' the timber around the box,
matching the grain. Lay out your box and label the components clearly.
It is also wise to label the corresponding edges to avoid confusion. |
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Step 2:
Dovetailing
**REFER TO YOUR DOVETAIL JIG INSTRUCTIONS ON HOW TO CUT DOVETAILS.**
On a Leigh®
Jig, arrange your dovetail guide pins to suit the dimensions of the
timber being machined. The dimensions used in these kits will also suit
the Carba-Tec EuroJig® without modification. A backing piece is recommended
to avoid chip-out when using dovetail jigs. Masking tape applied to the
timber where the dovetails will be cut prior to machining will also help
to prevent this. We recommend the use of
CMT® spiral router bits for this task, as they will provide the
cleanest cut.
NOTE - If you are unfamiliar with your dovetail jig, it may be wise to
machine some material to the same dimensions as your box components and
cut sample dovetails to check the fit and the layout first. |
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| NOTE - This box is dovetailed and glued before
the lid is cut off. You will therefore need to make the dovetail pin you
are going to cut through, wider, by the same amount as the kerf of your
sawblade or router bit. This will create uniform pin sizing overall. *This
cannot be done on fixed template dovetail jigs such as the EuroJig®.* |
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Step 3:
Cutting the Grooves for the Top and Bottom
Dry assemble the
box and hold it together with masking tape. Set up a 4mm slot cutter with
a bearing in a router table. You will want a depth of cut of about 5mm.
Run your groove around the inside of the box top and bottom while it is
assembled, leaving a space of about 5mm from the edge.
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| NOTE - This will leave a rounded cavity in
the corners. If you don't have a router table you can cut this groove on
a tablesaw, with the box disassembled, but you may need to plug the ends
of the dovetails where the blade comes through. |
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Step 4:
Rabbeting the Top and Bottom Plates
To fit the top and bottom panels into the grooves you will need to reduce
the thickness of the edge down to 4mm by cutting a mould around the outside
of the top panel, using a cove cutting bit, dish cutting/bowl & tray
bit or similar (CMT 851-502-11
is ideal). For the bottom panel a rabbeting bit can be used to create
a tongue around the edge of the base. You may also use the same cutting
bit as per the top if desired. |
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The panels should fit into the grooves about 4mm, leaving 1mm for movement.
It is not necessary to glue the panels in, as they need to float so they
can move with the changes of atmosphere.
If you have routed the grooves with the box assembled as suggested (recommended),
you will need to round the edges of the panels before machining the moulds,
to suit the rounded cavity. A 10 cent piece is ideal to give you the correct
curve. |
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It is best to do most of the sanding of the top and bottom
panels and the inside faces of the box panels before assembly. Next, do
a dry test fit of all components. When happy with the fit, glue and assemble
the box. Take care not to use too much glue. Excessive squeeze out will
leave a mark under your finish, and it is not easy to wipe the excess
off the inside of your box. We suggest using Titebond®
Original wood glue as it creates a very strong joint, sands well and
cleans up with water.
Once the box is dry, do most of your external sanding before you cut
the lid off. You may need to plane or sand the excess off the ends of
the dovetails. This will seal the end grain beautifully. |
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Step 5.
Cutting off the Lid
Make your cut through the wider pin if your design has included this
feature. This can be done on the tablesaw with the blade set so it just
cuts through the thickness of the material. It can also be cut on the
router table with a very fine straight cutter or spiral bit (recommended).
The spiral bit will give a planed finish to the edges and reduce chipping.
A downcut spiral bit will give the least chipping out on the outside surface
of the box. You will need to use a fence on the router table to give you
a straight line and support. Whether you are cutting the lid off on a
tablesaw or a router table, take care when cutting the fourth side as there may be movement in the lid. |
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Step
6. Fitting the Lining
The lining is designed to fit into the inside of the box and create a
lip to support the box lid. Sand the lining before gluing. The inside of the box should already have
been sanded. The linings can be mitred or butt joined to fit into the
box. Note that they may require final trimming to size. Fix in place with
a small amount of glue. This should create a
very neat fitting for the box lid. |
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Step
7. Finishing
Native western timbers take finishes very well and can be cabinet scraped
or sanded to a very fine level, bringing out the natural oil in the timber.
The more effort you put into this the greater the reward will be. Finish
choice for the box is purely a personal preference, however oil and wax
gives a beautiful hand rubbed lustre to the dense nature of Western Hardwoods.
Organoil
products are perfect for the job, especially the Hard
Burninshing Oil. ENJOY!! |
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Click
here to purchase the Split Lid Box Kit
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$0.00
