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How to: Pre-Cut Box Kit Project - Split Lid Box

Pre-cut box kit project - split lid These boxes may be dovetailed on a dovetail jig such as the Leigh Jig, or alternatively they may also be hand-dovetailed, box-jointed, mitred or joined through other rmeans. Just be aware that if you choose other types of joinery for the project you might need to adjust the panel sizes.



PACKAGE CONTENTS In your pack of beautiful Western Queensland Hardwood timber you should have: 2 of 250mm x 108mm x 10mm (Sides) 2 of 150mm x 108mm x 10mm (Sides) 2 of 250mm x 140mm x 8mm (One Decorative for lid and one for base) 2 of 240mm x 70 mm x 2mm (Linings) 2 of 140mm x 70 mm x 2mm (Linings) ALL THE TIMBER IS KILN DRIED, CUT TO SIZE AND SANDED TO #150 grit.

Step 1: Layout A feature of this timber is that it has been end matched, being sawn from the one piece. You can therefore 'wrap' the timber around the box, matching the grain. Lay out your box and label the components clearly. It is also wise to label the corresponding edges to avoid confusion.

Step 2: Dovetailing REFER TO YOUR DOVETAIL JIG INSTRUCTIONS ON HOW TO CUT DOVETAILS. On a Leigh® Jig, arrange your dovetail guide pins to suit the dimensions of the timber being machined. The dimensions used in these kits will also suit the Carba-Tec EuroJig® without modification. A backing piece is recommended to avoid chip-out when using dovetail jigs. Masking tape applied to the timber where the dovetails will be cut prior to machining will also help to prevent this. We recommend the use of CMT® spiral router bits for this task, as they will provide the cleanest cut. NOTE - If you are unfamiliar with your dovetail jig, it may be wise to machine some material to the same dimensions as your box components and cut sample dovetails to check the fit and the layout first.
NOTE - This box is dovetailed and glued before the lid is cut off. You will therefore need to make the dovetail pin you are going to cut through, wider, by the same amount as the kerf of your sawblade or router bit. This will create uniform pin sizing overall. *This cannot be done on fixed template dovetail jigs such as the EuroJig®.*

Step 3: Cutting the Grooves for the Top and Bottom Dry assemble the box and hold it together with masking tape. Set up a 4mm slot cutter with a bearing in a router table. You will want a depth of cut of about 5mm. Run your groove around the inside of the box top and bottom while it is assembled, leaving a space of about 5mm from the edge.
NOTE - This will leave a rounded cavity in the corners. If you don't have a router table you can cut this groove on a tablesaw, with the box disassembled, but you may need to plug the ends of the dovetails where the blade comes through.

Step 4: Rabbeting the Top and Bottom Plates To fit the top and bottom panels into the grooves you will need to reduce the thickness of the edge down to 4mm by cutting a mould around the outside of the top panel, using a cove cutting bit, dish cutting/bowl & tray bit or similar (CMT 851-502-11 is ideal). For the bottom panel a rabbeting bit can be used to create a tongue around the edge of the base. You may also use the same cutting bit as per the top if desired.
The panels should fit into the grooves about 4mm, leaving 1mm for movement. It is not necessary to glue the panels in, as they need to float so they can move with the changes of atmosphere. If you have routed the grooves with the box assembled as suggested (recommended), you will need to round the edges of the panels before machining the moulds, to suit the rounded cavity. A 10 cent piece is ideal to give you the correct curve.
It is best to do most of the sanding of the top and bottom panels and the inside faces of the box panels before assembly. Next, do a dry test fit of all components. When happy with the fit, glue and assemble the box. Take care not to use too much glue. Excessive squeeze out will leave a mark under your finish, and it is not easy to wipe the excess off the inside of your box. We suggest using Titebond® Original wood glue as it creates a very strong joint, sands well and cleans up with water. Once the box is dry, do most of your external sanding before you cut the lid off. You may need to plane or sand the excess off the ends of the dovetails. This will seal the end grain beautifully.

Step 5. Cutting off the Lid Make your cut through the wider pin if your design has included this feature. This can be done on the tablesaw with the blade set so it just cuts through the thickness of the material. It can also be cut on the router table with a very fine straight cutter or spiral bit (recommended). The spiral bit will give a planed finish to the edges and reduce chipping. A downcut spiral bit will give the least chipping out on the outside surface of the box. You will need to use a fence on the router table to give you a straight line and support. Whether you are cutting the lid off on a tablesaw or a router table, take care when cutting the fourth side as there may be movement in the lid.

Step 6. Fitting the Lining The lining is designed to fit into the inside of the box and create a lip to support the box lid. Sand the lining before gluing. The inside of the box should already have been sanded. The linings can be mitred or butt joined to fit into the box. Note that they may require final trimming to size. Fix in place with a small amount of glue. This should create a very neat fitting for the box lid.

Step 7. Finishing Native western timbers take finishes very well and can be cabinet scraped or sanded to a very fine level, bringing out the natural oil in the timber. The more effort you put into this the greater the reward will be. Finish choice for the box is purely a personal preference, however oil and wax gives a beautiful hand rubbed lustre to the dense nature of Western Hardwoods. Organoil products are perfect for the job, especially the Hard Burninshing Oil. ENJOY!!